商务男士圣诞派对怎么穿

时间：2021-01-16 12:13:59 办公室英语我要投稿

商务男士圣诞派对怎么穿

　　The Christmas party season gets a bad press on the style pages, and not without good reason. As a religious festival, as a commercial opportunity or as a chance to drink one’s own body weight in spiced wine while treating the boss to a few pointed “home truths” about the way the business is run, clearly the holiday period has much to recommend it. But it’s hardly what you’d call a triumph of good taste.

商务男士圣诞派对怎么穿

　　圣诞派对季对流行时尚造成了负面影响，而且完全是事出有因的。圣诞既是个重要的宗教节日，又蕴含着无限商机，而且在纵酒作乐的同时、还可趁机就公司管理向老板进一些逆耳忠言的话。对圣诞假期的穿着，可以提供很多建议，但完全不是想象中的高大上风格的。

　　All that tacky tinsel, all those gaudy baubles. All that forest green and fire-engine red. All those simpering fairy-lights and despairing trees. All that cheap sentimentality and expensive kitsch. And, oh, my dears, the noise! The people! And the menswear!

　　圣诞假期之间，到处是俗不可耐的装饰亮片、华而不实的小玩意、大红大绿之色、毫无生气的圣诞树小彩灯及圣诞树。全都是无病呻吟之举以及拿钱堆出来的粗俗世界。哦，我的老天!全是喧闹鼓噪之声!

　　It’s not just the jolly festive jumpers (although it is those, too — the scene from Bridget Jones in which poor Colin Firth is forced into a knitted reindeer sweater continues to haunt the dreams of men’s style watchers 14 years on). It’s not even the sight of normally mild-mannered middle managers leading conga lines through the office while wearing novelty Santa hats.

　　当然，圣诞假期并非只是炫耀漂亮的圣诞毛衣(尽管圣诞毛衣也是关注重点——《BJ单身日记》(Bridget Jones)中可怜虫科林弗思(Colin Firth)被迫穿上驯鹿图案毛衣的镜头14年来一直萦绕在男装关注者的脑海中)，甚至也不是亲眼目睹原先温文尔雅的公司中层管理者戴上新奇的圣诞老人帽子后在办公室领跳康加舞。

　　Because, while regrettable, these are by no means the most dispiriting seasonal sartorial mishaps. That prize goes to the Christmas partygoer who believes that in order to signal to colleagues and clients and even close friends that he has got his Xmas funk on, all he must do is remove his tie and undo the top button of his shirt and, well, that’s it. He removes his tie. Like David Cameron and chums at a G7 photo-call. The shame of it is that it is perfectly possible to get into the swing of the season while remaining dapper and debonair.

　　个中原因是：尽管这么做让人遗憾，但上述行头都不是圣诞季最让人扫兴的服装“错配”。“拔得头筹者”当属那些圣诞聚会的常客，他们认为为了向同事及客户、甚至密友显摆自己已成功克服圣诞恐惧症，自己必须做的事是去掉领带以及解开衬衣最上面一颗扣子，对，就是这些。他们不系领带，就与七国峰会接受媒体拍照的卡梅伦首相(David Cameron)以及其它六国领导人一样。让人无地自容的是：个人很可能早已完全融入圣诞季，但穿着仍是那么衣冠楚楚、风流倜傥。

　　First, the office party. I’m not going to use the most fearful phrase in the style lexicon: smart-casual. However, dressing as you would for a board meeting — grey flannel suit, crisp white poplin shirt, navy silk tie and polished brogues — seems somewhat de trop. As does turning up for work dressed as Will Ferrell in Elf. It’s meant to be fun, not career-endangering. So a happy medium must be negotiated between sartorial teetotalism and the style equivalent of binge-drinking.

　　首先是参加办公室聚会的装束。我不想用时尚词汇中最吓人的一个词——商务休闲装(Smart Casual)。但是，用参加董事会的行头(灰色法兰绒西服、洁白的府绸衬衣、深蓝色丝质领带以及锃亮的布洛克皮鞋)去参加聚会似乎无此必要;而穿得象《圣诞精灵》(Elf)中的威尔法瑞尔(Will Ferrell)那样去上班也显得不合适。所以装束必须开心有趣，但不可危及职业形象。因此，两全其美的折中办法就是介于过分放纵与不敢越雷池半步之间。

　　The good news is that contemporary men’s fashion has made things easier for partygoers aiming for relaxed elegance. After a number of years in which a buttoned-up aesthetic held sway — the Mad Men look — men’s tailoring has taken a more relaxed turn. Cuts are looser, fabrics softer. And the idea of the “broken suit” — what women, less melodramatically, call “separates” — has come to the fore: grey trousers with a blue jacket, or perhaps a subtle difference in shade or texture between top and bottom. Italian labels, in particular, have perfected this. Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli all find the sweet spot between business and pleasure, catering to men who wish to look smart but not stuffy.

　　好消息是如今的男装已让希望穿着越休闲又不失优雅的聚会常客们应对自如。在系扣式服装(即《广告狂人》(Mad Men)中的装束)多年占据主导地位后，男装开始转向休闲风格。裁剪风格越发自由，面料也越发柔软。将成套西服拆开来穿搭(“broken suit”)的想法逐渐盛行：灰色裤子配蓝色夹克、或者是上衣与裤子的颜色深浅与纹路稍有差别。女性则干脆把“broken suit”直呼为单件装。尤以意大利各时装品牌为甚，它们把“broken suit”演绎到了极致。阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)、杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)以及布鲁内诺錠奇内利(Brunello Cucinelli)都完美兼顾了公司的业务与消费者的愉悦感，满足了男士穿着既时髦又不显古板的心愿。

　　Start with the blazer. Armani is king of the unstructured jacket. His are made in the softest textures with innovative, tactile fabrics; flattering, unshowy and a pleasure to wear. And you don’t look like you’re about to deliver a PowerPoint presentation when you make a move towards the dance floor. (Easy there, tiger.)

　　首当其冲的`是运动夹克。阿玛尼是休闲夹克的引领者。它推出的夹克用触摸感很强的新型面料、配以最柔和的纹路打造而成，显得既帅气又含蓄，上身后美不胜收。穿上它后，步入舞池翩翩起舞时，给人的感觉不像是去做PPT演示时的模样。(火爆脾气者淡定。)

　　Another tip: try to find something you wouldn’t wear to work on a wet Wednesday in March. If you typically wear a single-breasted jacket, go double. Are all your trousers flat-fronted? Then try a single pleat. Zegna’s are cut looser and flappier than you might be used to, and this is a good thing.

　　另一条小建议：找一身三月份星期三雨天上班时不可能穿的行头。平时穿单排扣短上衣上班者，不妨换身双排扣短上衣。所有裤子都是无褶皱的平额裤(flat-fronted trousers)的该怎么办?不妨穿件带褶裤。杰尼亚的款式比一般行头更显休闲与飘逸，是不错的装束。

　　Wear a blue shirt instead of white, and not in a loud executive check. Think about your comfort: it gets hot at parties, so maybe a super lightweight cotton from Emma Willis or Turnbull & Asser. Buy a knitted silk tie; Drake’s are my favourite. And ditch the lace-ups in favour of a softer loafer, from Tod’s or Berluti.

　　衬衣要选蓝色、而非白色款，而且不能是颜色过分艳丽的高档格子料。要考虑舒适度：聚会场合容易热，因此诸位可以考虑穿一件艾玛威利斯(Emma Willis)或是滕博阿瑟(Turnbull & Asser)的超轻款棉衬衫。再添置一条针织真丝领带，Drake’s是本人最喜欢的领带。切勿穿系带皮鞋，应该选Tod’s或伯鲁提(Berluti)轻便款乐福鞋。

　　For formal client lunches, you will still want to wear a suit. Prada will make you look slick but not ceremonial. Savile Row tailor Kilgour does sharp, off-the-peg suits with modern details — thin lapels, flapless pockets. Something more conservative? A suit from Thom Sweeney’s ready-to-wear collection at Mr Porter. Alternatively, corduroy has been reanimated. My own is a dark navy needlecord from Hackett, and there’s a bottle-green Burberry number that I covet.

　　对于与正式客户共进午餐，诸位仍得穿西服赴会。普拉达(Prada)的西服会让你显得帅气而又不那么循规蹈矩。萨维尔(Savile Row)裁缝行切尔高(Kilgour)有现成的时髦西服(窄翻领与无盖口袋等细微处体现了现代时尚风格)。诸位若想穿得传统些又该怎么办?在线零售店Mr Porter上汤姆斯威尼(Thom Sweeney)的现成西服是个不错的选择。要不然，选择再度流行的灯心绒面料西装。本人穿的就是Hackett的深蓝色细条灯心绒面料西装，此外我还一直觊觎博柏利(Burberry)的一款深绿色西服。

　　Don’t mess with black tie. Tom Ford is the reigning ruler of luxurious men’s eveningwear, and you might also consider Gieves & Hawkes and Richard James (below right), both of whom cut a mean dinner jacket. And get it tailored, so you don’t look like a waiter.

　　千万不能与黑色领带混搭。汤姆輠祹(Tom Ford)是高档男式晚装当仁不让的“王者”，诸位还可选择吉凡克斯(Gieves & Hawkes)与理查德礠姆斯(Richard James)品牌的晚装，两者都推出了高档无尾礼服。礼服必须得合身，否则活脱一副服务员的模样。

　　Then there’s the day itself, the culmination of all that carousing. It’s not the 1950s, you’re not Bing Crosby, and no one expects you to wear a dickie bow. True, it’s pleasant to open your presents in your jimjams (Derek Rose, please) but later on you’ll want to put on something knitted. The winner of the Tasteful Christmas Jumper award this year is Gucci’s sumptuous Fair Isle sweater. My own December 25 standby is a Ralph Lauren Polo cashmere cable-knit. If yours is a traditional family Christmas, you can’t go wrong with Ralph.

　　最后当然是圣诞当天，这是所有狂欢作乐活动的高潮时刻。如今早已今非昔比，诸位也不再是上世纪50年代的平克劳斯贝(Bing Crosby)，没人指望你会系条低劣的蝴蝶结领结过圣诞。没错，在酒酣耳热时打开礼物感觉最为惬意(请送德里克圠斯(Derek Rose)的睡衣为佳)，但没过多久，诸位可能想穿毛衣了。今年的最有品味圣诞毛衣奖(Tasteful Christmas Jumper)得主是古驰(Gucci)的费尔岛杂色图纹高档毛衣(Fair Isle sweater)。我今年准备的圣诞毛衣是拉尔夫劳伦(Ralph Lauren)的Polo款铰花针织羊绒衫。诸位过的是传统家庭的圣诞节，那么穿拉尔夫劳伦的毛衣再合适不过了。

　　Naturally, exceptions to all these rules are made for a certain apple-cheeked old fellow with a snow-white beard and a sleigh. And no man, no matter how particular in his dress, should attempt to make it through to Boxing Day without at least once settling a flimsy paper party hat on his head. It is Christmas, after all.

　　当然，坐着雪橇、满脸雪白胡须的红脸蛋圣诞老人完全不必遵守上述规矩。所有人，不管穿得多么特别，在圣诞节后上班首天(Boxing Day)，至少都该戴一顶薄纸圣诞帽子。毕竟这是最为隆重的圣诞节。

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